Monday, August 17, 2009

THE CIRAGAN PALACE

The best sites along the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn had been reserved for the palaces and mansions of the sultans or important personalities. Most of these, however, have disappeared in time. One of these, the large Çıragan Palace, burned down in 1910.

The palace, replacing an earlier wooden palace, had been built in 1871 for Sultan Abdülaziz by court architect Serkis Balyan. The construction took four years and cost four million gold pieces.

The ceilings and the interior partitions were made of wood, the walls were covered by marble. The columns were superior examples of stonemasonry. The palace was lavishly decorated with rare carpets, gilded pieces and furniture inlaid with mother-of-pearl.

Like other palaces on the shores of the Bosphorus, the Çıragan had been the venue of various important meetings. Its facades were decorated with colored marbles, it had monumental gates, and it was connected to the Yildiz Palace on the slopes behind it with a bridge.

On the landside it was surrounded by high walls. After remaining in ruins for many years, the palace has been renovated and turned into a 5-star seashore hotel with several new additions.

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THE YILDIZ PALACE

This is a complex of pavilions and gardens scattered over a large area of hills and valleys

overlooking the Bosphorus and surrounded by high walls. This second largest palace in Istanbul is now separated into various sections, each serving a different purpose. The 500,000 sq. m grove had always been reserved for the court, and the first mansion built here in the early 19th century was quickly followed by others. When Sultan Abdulhamid II, who was an overly suspicious person, decided that this palace offered better security, the complex soon developed into its present form.

During his thirty-three year reign, the sultan used this well-protected palace resembling a city within a city as his official quarters and harem. The different courtyards containing pavilions, pools, greenhouses, aviaries, workshops and servants' quarters were separated from each other by passageways and gates. There are two small and charming mosques situated outside the two main entrances.

The buildings that were allocated to the higher military academy have been vacated now. The facilities to the north are still used for military purposes, but the other sections have been assigned to the use of the Yildiz Technical University, the municipality, the Department of National Palaces, and the Institute for Research in the History of Islamic Arts and Cultures.

The large part of the palace gardens, some old pavilions and the famous porcelain workshops are open to the public in what is now called the Yildiz Park. The park is connected to the Ciragan Palace on the seashore with a bridge. The best-known building in the complex, the Sale (chalet) Pavilion, is reached through the park. The pavilion is an important museum with its well-kept gardens, its exterior architecture resembling Alpine hunting lodges, its rich decorations, valuable furniture, carpets, and large ceramic stoves.



The main entrance of the Yildiz Palace is up the hill from Besikta§. The Muayede Pavilion to the left of the entrance is now being renovated as a new museum. Also on the left side are the single-storied Qt Pavilion, where the guests of the sultan were accommodated, and the entrance to the harem. On the opposite side stood the offices of the military officers in charge, the Yaveran chambers. The greenhouse and the theater in the harem section are attractive examples of their kind.

The staff dining room to the right of the entrance was later used to exhibit weapons collections. Today exhibitions and concerts take place here.

The Yildiz Palace Museum and the Municipal Museum of Istanbul are also in this complex. The Palace museum was founded in 1994 and it occupies the former carpentry workshops. Carved and painted wooden artifacts, thrones, porcelain produced in the palace workshops, and other objects from the palace are exhibited here, while in the Municipal Museum next to it glass and porcelain wares, silverware, paintings depicting Istanbul and a rare 16th century oil lamp are on display.

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Sunday, August 16, 2009

DOLMABAHCE PALACE

The Dolmabahçe Palace, a blend of various European architectural styles, was built between 1843-1856 by Karabet Balyan, the court architect of Sultan Abdulmecid. The Ottoman sultans had many palaces in all ages, but the Topkapi was the official residence until the completion of the Dolmabahce Palace.

The three-storied palace built on a symmetrical plan has 285 rooms and 43 halls. There is a 600 m long quay along the sea and two monumental gates, one of them very ornate, on the land side. Well-kept, beautiful gardens surround this seaside palace. In the middle, there is a large ballroom with a ceiling higher than the other sections. The entrance section of the palace was used for the receptions and meetings of the sultan, and the wing behind the ballroom used as the harem section.

The palace has survived intact with its original decorations, furniture, and the silk carpets and curtains. It surpasses all other palaces in the world in wealth and magnificence.

The walls and the ceilings are covered with paintings by the famous artists of the age and decorations made using tons of gold. All the furnishings in the important rooms and halls are in different shades of the same color. The ornate wooden floors have different designs in each room, and they are covered with the famous silk and wool carpets of Hereke, some of the finest examples of Turkish art.

Rare handmade artifacts from Europe and the Far East'decorate every room in the palace. Brilliant crystal chandeliers, candelabras and fireplaces add to the lavish decor.

The ballroom is the largest of its kind in the world. A 4.5 ton colossal crystal chandelier hangs from the 36 m high dome. The hall, which is used for important political meetings,receptions and balls, was previously heated by an oven-like system under the floor. Central heating and electricity were later additions to the palace.

Of the six baths in the palace, the one in the section reserved for men was made of unique and beautifully carved alabaster.

The upper galleries of the ballroom were reserved for orchestras and the diplomatic corps. Long hallways lead to the harem, where the bedrooms of the sultan and the quarters of his mother, other ladies of the court and the servants were located.

An annex in the north was reserved for the crown prince. The entrance to this building is from Beşiktaş and it now serves as the Museum of Fine Arts.

In the Republican era, Atatürk used to reside in this palace when he visited Istanbul. He died here in 1938 and before his body was taken to Ankara, it was laid in state while the public poured in to pay him their last respects.

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GALATA TOWER

Built on the site of an older tower in the 14th-15th centuries, the Galata Tower offers the best view of the Golden Horn, Old Istanbul, the entrance to the Bosphorus and the Asian shore.

The tower was erected to observe the port and the city, and after being used for various purposes over the centuries, it has now reassumed its original function of watch tower - this time to enjoy the view. An elevator takes the visitors to the top two floors of the tower that are today occupied by a restaurant and a nightclub.

Nights are colorful here with belly dancers, folk dance groups and singers performing in a typical atmosphere and against the marvelous view in the background.

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The Janissary Band

The official band of the Ottoman army was known as the Mehter. This band, consisting of hundreds of musicians, marched in front of the armies during campaigns. In battles and sieges, it played stirring marches. Today, in the Military Museum of Istanbul, the music of this oldest band of the world is still played in the traditional manner on some days and during ceremonies and concerts.

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THE SPICE BAZAAR

The Spice Bazaar, the second largest covered market in the city, was part of the mosque complex. Other surviving parts of the complex are the tombs and the magnificent fountain. On the mosque side of the L-shaped Spice Bazaar, there is a popular flower market and cafes, and fish, vegetable and grocery stores occupy the other side. Once all of the shops inside the bazaar used to sell spices, but over the time some have turned into dried fruit, grocery and gift shops or jewelers. It is one of the attractive sites in Istanbul with its vivacious and distinctive atmosphere.

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THE GOLDEN HORN

As a natural and extremely secure harbor, the Golden Horn has played an important role in the development of Istanbul. The inlet separates the European shore into two. It is approximately 8 km long, and the widest part is the entrance from the Bosphorus. Two streams drain into this inlet at its far end.

There are no tides or currents here. The name Golden Horn is both a symbol of fertility because of the fertile lands on its shores, the abundance of fish in its waters, and the fresh water of the streams and a reference to its shape.

In the Byzantine era, a chain at the entrance prevented the entry of foreign fleets into the Golden Horn. Bridges have connected the two shores from time to time; some of them built for military purposes. At present a fifth bridge is being planned for metro trains to cross. From the piers, crowded at all times, there are regular boat tours to the Asian shore, the Bosphorus and the Princes' Islands. The Harem section of

the Topkapi Palace gives a bird's eye view of the Golden Horn. The Sepetciler Kasri on the shore was a part of the Palace complex, and it is now allocated to the use of international journalists.

Nearby is the last stop of trains from Europe, the Sirkeci Railway Station built in 1890. The old Galata Bridge was recently moved to another site down the Golden Horn, and the new bridge is the largest example of its kind.

The central section of the bridge is opened on some days to allow the passage of larger ships. The bridge is a lively and interesting site, due both to the unending stream of pedestrian and car traffic and the view it offers.

The pollution in the Golden Horn after the 1950's has been taken under control thanks to the efforts undertaken since 1980. In recent years, over four thousand buildings on the shores of the Golden Horn have been demolished, the businesses moved to new centers outside the city, the shores turned into parks and gardens, and wastewater treatment plants involving vast canal systems and collectors constructed.

Of the sea walls along the bank, only some portions beyond the second Ataturk Bridge and those near the old Galata Bridge have survived.In Balat there is a small Bulgarian church made of cast iron, and further along in Fener the church and complex of the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate. On the opposite shore, the large building in Kasimpa§a is a naval construction dating to the 19th century. An old building with 8 domes, originally a foundry producing anchors for ships, was converted into a museum exhibiting model ships, machinery and other nautical equipment by the Koc family. The Aynahkavak Kasn in this district is the only surviving pavilion of the palaces on the Golden Horn and is open to visitors as a museum.

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